AETNA PROJECT

AETNA PROJECT is a high-end womenswear brand that interprets contemporary sophisticated women’s garments from classical aesthetics. It was co-founded in Shanghai by designers Feng Linjing and Liu Shiyuan in 2019. Aetna is the name of an active volcano in Sicily, Italy. When the two designers went together to Sicily to watch the sunrise, they were deeply moved by the glimmering but gorgeous scenery of Aetna volcano, hence they decided to name the brand after it. The brand combines simple and practical shape, exquisite pattern and details, and vivid color and printing, which infuses rich imagination into women’s daily clothing. It is intended to remind customers of a classical and romantic lady full of confidence and wisdom.

DESIGNER

LINJING FENG: FENG earned her bachelor’s and master’s degrees in womenswear design in the UK. During her undergraduate studies, she had internship at such brands as ROKSANDA and Emilio de la Moren in London, and then worked as a womenswear designer at COMME MOI in Shanghai. After three years of work, she gained a deep insight into brand architecture and models, and then went to the London College of Fashion to pursue her master’s degree. She graduated and founded the brand in 2019.
SHIYUAN LIU: LIU earned bachelor’s and master’s degrees in womenswear design in the UK and Hong Kong. She used to work at Jonathan Saunders studio in London after finishing her bachelor’s degree. After getting the master’s degree in 2016, he worked at LABELHOOD in Shanghai and later served as a visual marketing manager. Three years of working experience helped her accumulate rich experience in operation and promoting designer brands, and developed a comprehensive understanding of the market. In 2019, she got down to founding the brand.

S/S 2021

季⻛宛如候⻦,从海洋上吹来充盈的⽔汽,濡湿⽬之所及的夏⽇⻛物。位处热带的⼀切,似乎都随之沾染上了湿意。窗外⼀场⼤⾬骤然而⾄,摆满阳台的宽⼤植物绿意饱满,⼥⼈在⽔边洗濯完⻓发,点燃了⼀根湿湿的烟。如是夏⽇,最宜暧昧滋⻓。
2000年,越南导演陈英雄在电影《夏天的滋味》中以细腻之笔描绘了关于河内三个姐妹的⼀段段浓烈而粘腻的情感和不愿⼈知的秘密和⼼事。
这份秘密关于情⼈,是湿漉漉贴在脸颊边的乌发,和扑⾯而来的温热⿐息;关乎禁忌的情感,是相拥共舞的兄妹,和他们⾝后发出撞击脆响的⻩绿⾊珠帘;关乎⼥性的⾝体,是⾚⾝对着镜⼦想象怀孕的情状,和为对⽅细⼼修剪趾甲;关乎令⼈⼼颤的美,是被⻛吹起的碎花窗帘,透过⽵帘印在绿⾊墙壁上的树影,阳台上接受暴⾬洗礼的绿植,和罩在紫⾊纱⼱下的⻦笼。
陈英雄的镜头语⾔绮丽却温柔,而⼥⼈们则成了这番朦胧缱绻、葱茏湿热的夏⽇况味的最佳载体。
Aetna Project 2021春夏系列以此为灵感,将⼥⼈们绵密的情感欲望诉诸于服装的表达,呈现出⼀个含蓄⼜性感的成⾐系列。
曲线裁剪如草蛇灰线般贯穿系列始终。曲线造型贴袋线条流畅,腰间垂坠衬⾐尖细的领型勾勒着细⻓脖颈,连⾐裙腰部的垂褶于随性之间刻画着有致的凹凸,贴合⾝体的花苞下摆则描摹着柔和古典的⼥性体态,如果说这些剪裁细节为穿⾐者埋下婀娜的伏笔,那么犹抱琵琶半遮⾯的露腰设计更像是⼀种性感的留⽩,为⼥性线条留下更⼤的想象空间。经典款⼀粒扣西装本季依旧没有缺席,以新加⼊的不对称领型修饰肩颈线条,精致扣襻和优雅的开叉曲线则是品牌精神的最佳写照,精致却随性,柔和却独⽴。
《夏天的滋味》的影调亦可在这⼀季中觅得踪迹。透过轻盈的⽶⻩⾊,藕粉⾊、⾹芋紫、珍珠⽩,浓重的⽜油果绿与墨⿊,我们眼前依稀可⻅扎成油亮粗辫的乌发,薄如蝉翼的⽩⾊蚊帐,以及被⾬⽔打湿的热带绿植。 在⾯料上,影影绰绰的⽩⾊蕾丝与暗流涌动的蔷薇提花彼此呼应,钩织纤细的诗意;意⼤利光泽粘胶材质具有纹理细密的编织感,质朴之中不乏细节;褶皱肌理时装料打破缎⾯⼀贯平滑的⽆趣,更具特别质感;挺括的斜纹真丝如⼀池清⽔,因打褶处理而泛起丝丝涟漪;摩洛哥小⽺⽪则如同⼥性最温柔的铠甲,将⾝体妥帖包裹。
除却对于⼥性情感的刻画,Aetna Project亦想借2021春夏系列传达⼀种更为纯粹的审美取向,“美即是美本⾝”,⽆需精打细算的思考,便可体味其妙处,⼀如燥热却安静的越南盛夏,⼀如着Aetna Project的曼妙⼥郎。